Flack and Waddington were fashion designers before becoming entrepreneurial restaurateurs in changing bits of the East End
People wandering in to investigate it soon start to smile. On Saturday evening, in that lovely light and heat, as the sun set, with the yellow flag irises in the canal glowing, a coot busying about, partying canal boats passing, it seemed an enchanted corner.
The food is a fry-up, a stylised fry-up, incorporating lots of buzzy Peruvian and Mexican ingredients (chipotle, chimichurri, humita, chicharron —massive teeth-snapping pork scratchings), but a fry-up nonetheless: diner food in excelsis.
starters include tuna tostada, ceviche with plantains and a sweetcorn chowder. Soft-shell crab burger (£16) is a monster signature dish — a whole slightly crunchy crab with its legs sticking out over the bun,
Shrimpy’s is already rammed with desperate early-adopters. Fashiontossers, I think they’re called? I have never been in a place where people eyed each other up so much, almost insanely anxious to check out who else had got in. Who could they have all been? On Saturday, they included a guy in a shorty romper suit and a 6ft 7in lady with a microskirt, a blonde crop and ever so muscular arms. Such an addition to the gaiety of nations. Shrimpy’s couldn’t be more committed to that. A lovely place where there was nothing good before.
The King’s Cross Filling Station, Goods Way, N1 (020 8880 6111, shrimpys.co.uk). Open daily 11am-10.30pm (11pm Fri and Sat). Around £100/£120 for two.